作伙擺攤才好玩 台東長濱市場「食」在人情味

FoodingTaitung, translated Gregory Thorpe Badrena, special to The China Post
·11 分鐘 (閱讀時間)
<p>One local explains: “Changbin Market is like a venue for them to interact. If there isn’t anyone to set up the stalls with them, there might be fewer stalls that day. They set up shop together so that they won’t get bored.” A stall stands at a street corner with a group of six sellers all huddled around it. As someone shouts out they wish to snap a photo, one of the stall owners chatting far off in the corner returns to indulge in the picture-taking.<br />
(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)</p>

One local explains: “Changbin Market is like a venue for them to interact. If there isn’t anyone to set up the stalls with them, there might be fewer stalls that day. They set up shop together so that they won’t get bored.” A stall stands at a street corner with a group of six sellers all huddled around it. As someone shouts out they wish to snap a photo, one of the stall owners chatting far off in the corner returns to indulge in the picture-taking.
(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

【看CP學英文】一日三餐,「食」深植我們的生活之中。吃這件事,不僅是吃,環繞在食的環節,到底有多少?我們0-100歲之間,如何時時刻刻都享受到美味與健康呢?長期關注食物議題的平台「台東食育提案所」今年發起「台東100食」企劃,邀請美味關係人,分享自己美味又健康的秘訣。

Our lives are deeply regimented by three daily meals, but eating isn’t just about putting food in our mouths, it’s the moments connecting each meal. So just how many are there?

During our 100 years on this earth, how can we enjoy both the tasty and the healthy in life? Fooding Taitung is a platform with a long-term dedication to food and has launched the “Taitung 100 Meals” (台東100) project this year, inviting food experts to share their delicious and healthy secrets.

台東食育提案所是一群集合關注台東食物教育的政府、學校、在地人、設計師,展開的在地紮根食育行動,成為整合食物議題的平台。

Fooding Taitung is comprised of government, schools, locals, and designers concerned about dietary education in Taitung, kick-starting events on the subject and becoming a platform for topics concerning food.

說到哪裏可以買到豐富的野菜、海菜,就一定會提到這個位在長濱街上、早上限定的長濱街市。「台東食育提案所」調查員早上八點抵達,只見馬路兩側滿滿的攤位,都擺放了各式各樣的野菜、海產、Siraw等,聊天聲此起彼落,熱鬧非凡。有趣的是,長濱街市的攤位幾乎都不只有一個人在顧攤,而是由好幾個人聚在一起,帶著自己的椅子,排成一排坐在一起聊天。

When searching for a variety of wild vegetables and seafood, the Changbin market located in eastern Taiwan, Taitung is the place to go, opening every morning on Changbin Street.

Fooding Taitung’s investigators arrived at 8 a.m. and saw the road lined on both sides with food stalls full of vegetables, seafood, siraw (jars of pickled fish), and much more, while their owners chatted amongst each other in this lively atmosphere.

Interestingly, there’s barely a soul looking after the stalls because they gather together, bring their own chairs, sit in a row, and chat.

(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

當這攤的老闆跑去找別攤聊天時,隔壁攤位的老闆會馬上補過來幫忙介紹,然後另一個攤位的老闆,會扯開嗓門:「有客人欸!」的叫原攤主趕快回來。聽著在地人說:「長濱街市可以說是他們感情交流的會場,要是今日沒有同伴一起來擺攤,可能會少好幾攤,一定要一起擺才不會無聊。」

One stall owner ran over and struck up a conversation with a neighboring stall, followed by yet another next door who immediately helped to make introductions, and finally, a fourth seller spoke up, “Customers have arrived!” as the first stall owner rushes back.

One local explains: “Changbin Market is like a venue for them to interact. If there isn’t anyone to set up the stalls with them, there might be fewer stalls that day. They set up shop together so that they won’t get bored.”

(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

座落在轉角處的某個菜攤,就同時有6個老闆在顧攤,有的賣野菜、有的在賣糯米飯,一聽到要拍照,馬上呼喊還在遠端聊天的其中一個老闆回來拍照。攤位上擺放整整齊齊的蕗蕎、香菜、紅皮蘿蔔、南瓜,還有木鱉子葉。阿姨拿起木鱉子葉,叫我們搓揉之後聞一下味道,然後說到搓完之後稍微燙一下,就可以做成木鱉子葉沙拉。

On a street corner, six stalls have popped up, some selling fresh vegetables and others, sticky rice. As soon as one of the stalls in the corner shouts out to others that we investigators wish to snap a photo, one of the stall owners chatting far off in another corner returns to indulge in the picture-taking.

With lots of Chinese scallions, coriander, red radish, pumpkin, and gac (Momordica cochinchinesis) leaves bing neatly placed on the stall, the stall lady grabbed the gac leaves and asked us to smell after rubbing it, indicating that it can be cooked afterward and made into a gac salad.

木鱉子葉|Gac leaves(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
木鱉子葉|Gac leaves(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
Ina叫我們搓一搓木虌子葉,說稍微燙一下就可以做成沙拉或是煮湯,要搓搓清香味才會出來喔。|Ina makes us rub some gac leaves, saying they can be cooked as a salad or soup. Only after rubbing do they emit a fragrance.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
Ina叫我們搓一搓木虌子葉,說稍微燙一下就可以做成沙拉或是煮湯,要搓搓清香味才會出來喔。|Ina makes us rub some gac leaves, saying they can be cooked as a salad or soup. Only after rubbing do they emit a fragrance.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

長濱街市的老闆幾乎人人都是採集高手,形狀可人但味道好苦的車輪果、爽脆的山蘇、處理的白白淨淨的樹薯以及很多調查員還辨認不出的野菜。我們好奇地問:「阿姨,你們都什麼時候採野菜啊?」,阿姨說:「我們45點就出發到山上採野菜,整理之後就開賣!」所以我們在市場所看到滿滿的野菜,可都是剛剛才被採摘起來的,正可謂「產地直送」,說有多新鮮就有多新鮮。

Almost all the stalls of Changbin Market are experts at food gathering – plump but bitter-tasting sliced fruits, crispy nest fern leaves, processed white cassava, and many wild vegetables that the investigator doesn’t recognize.

We asked, “Ma’am, when do you pick these vegetables?” She replied, “We head up the mountain at 4 or 5 o’clock to pick them, then begin selling after sorting them out!” Freshly picked produce was bountiful and could be described as “straight from the land” – as fresh as they can get.

一捆捆漂亮的山蘇,都是今天早上才採集回來的|Eye-catching bundles of nest fern leaves, freshly plucked the same morning.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
一捆捆漂亮的山蘇,都是今天早上才採集回來的|Eye-catching bundles of nest fern leaves, freshly plucked the same morning.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

鄰近海邊的長濱,當然有豐富的海菜及海產。他們通常在收攤後,確認今天的潮汐,算準時間前進海邊採集,經過處理,隔天帶到街市販賣。調查員這幾天下來,也認識了一些海菜,不過在逛市場的同時,還是會驚訝海菜的種類真的好多啊!認也認不完,有的形狀長得像樹上的植物,有的看起像珊瑚。

Of course, the long coastline nearby is rich in seafood and other marine life. The tide is usually checked after closing the stalls in order to determine the next suitable time to collect from the sea and after processing, they’re brought to the market for sale the next day.

Although the investigators have come to know some seafood in the past few days, the shocking variety of each species still leaves an indelible impression. There are just too many to remember! Some of them look like certain plants that grow on trees, while others look like coral.

由於實在太好奇,調查員指著一個長得像鹿角的海菜問:「老闆這是什麼海菜?」,才剛問完,只見老闆直接一口下肚,只回我們:「這個很好吃啦!」至於叫什麼名字⋯⋯反正好吃就好。調查員回去搜查,才發現這是一種阿美族語叫做dokido的海藻。

Curiously pointing to one that looked like antlers, the investigator asked, “Excuse me, what kind of seafood is this?”. To which the seller just took a bite and simply replied, “It’s delicious!” As for knowing its name … Well, at least we know it tasted good. After some research, it was discovered to be a kind of seaweed called “dokido” in the native Amis language.

海菜的種類真的好多,認也認不完,有的形狀長得像樹上的植物,有的看起像珊瑚。這個長得像鹿角的海菜,是一種阿美族語叫做dokido的海藻。|There’s a shocking variety at the market. There are just too many species to remember! Some of them look like certain plants that grow on trees, while others look like coral. This antler-shaped seaweed is called <em>dokido</em> by the local Amis natives.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
海菜的種類真的好多,認也認不完,有的形狀長得像樹上的植物,有的看起像珊瑚。這個長得像鹿角的海菜,是一種阿美族語叫做dokido的海藻。|There’s a shocking variety at the market. There are just too many species to remember! Some of them look like certain plants that grow on trees, while others look like coral. This antler-shaped seaweed is called dokido by the local Amis natives.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

而除了海菜之外,海鮮的Siraw也是各攤位上的常見商品。去年調查員在關山市場上就以為已經見識過各式各樣的Siraw,沒想到來到海線市場,才發現Siraw的種類也太豐富了吧,除了熟悉的醃豬肉、牛肉、豬油等,還有皇帝豆、九孔、火山爆發(藤壺)等等,玲瑯滿目,令調查員驚喜萬分。

In addition to sea vegetables, seafood siraw is also a common commodity in several stalls. Our investigators thought he had seen all siraw varieties last year at Guanshan Market, but he didn’t expect to come to the seaside market and discover that there was still so much more to explore.

Not only was there the familiar such as cured pork, beef and lard, but also lima beans, abalone, barnacles and more – all of which dazzled him.

白亮亮的葛鬱金,也可當太白粉使用,直接吃起來沒什麼味道,但口感很特別,有纖維。|Lily-white arrowroot can be used as a tasteless starch, but its texture is particularly fibrous.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
白亮亮的葛鬱金,也可當太白粉使用,直接吃起來沒什麼味道,但口感很特別,有纖維。|Lily-white arrowroot can be used as a tasteless starch, but its texture is particularly fibrous.(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
珍珠小洋蔥(玻璃珠)|Pearl onions(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)
珍珠小洋蔥(玻璃珠)|Pearl onions(Courtesy of 台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung)

想逛長濱街市要趁早,一到早上十點,老闆們準時下班,有些人準備去採集、有些人準備回家做飯、有些人找鄰居串門子,大家可都很忙的。要是來得太晚的話,可就看不到東西囉。

When visiting Changbin Market, you have to get there as early as possible. At ten o’clock in the morning, stall owners promptly finish working. Some go collecting, while others go home to cook or visit neighbors. Everyone is just so busy, and if you’re too late, you’ll miss everything.

長濱街市資訊

時間:每天早上6-10點(會因天氣有調整)

地點:長濱街(鄉公所附近)

Changbin Market Information

Time: 6am-10am every morning (subject to adjustment due to weather)

Location: Changbin Street (near the township office)

文章轉載自《台東食育提案所

Article originally from Fooding Taitung

台東食育提案所 FoodingTaitung

集合關注臺東食物教育的政府、學校、在地人、設計師,所展開的在地紮根食育行動,整合食物議題的平台。

A platform for bringing together the government, schools, local people, and designers concerned about dietary education in Taitung. Deepen and integrating knowledge regarding food issues.

臺東設計中心 Taitung Design Center

關注台東治理思維、城市生活、自然地景等議題。

Follows topics regarding Taitung’s governmental administration, urban life, natural landscapes, and others.

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