台南熱門文青風格排隊餐廳

By Chen Chih-tung, Liana Lai and Vivian Hsiao
<p>因為一句「設計師們,回鄉下去吧!」,設計師李翰凭(音同平)把工作重心轉回西港,並因此打造極富特色的西港榖倉餐廳與這間善化廳舍餐廳。|Because of one sentence: “Designers, head back home!” Designer, Lee Han-ping relocated back to Xigang and created the unique Xigang Gucang Restaurant and Shanhua Ting She Restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)</p>

因為一句「設計師們,回鄉下去吧!」,設計師李翰凭(音同平)把工作重心轉回西港,並因此打造極富特色的西港榖倉餐廳與這間善化廳舍餐廳。|Because of one sentence: “Designers, head back home!” Designer, Lee Han-ping relocated back to Xigang and created the unique Xigang Gucang Restaurant and Shanhua Ting She Restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

【看英文中國郵報學英文】台南,以美食聞名全台灣。近幾年,越來越多的年輕人,以美食結合藝術,打造適合旅客品嘗美食以及和欣賞藝術的文創空間。其中,台南知名的餐廳「榖倉餐廳」和「廳舍餐廳」在今年成為台南最炙手可熱的餐廳。

Tainan is a place in Taiwan known for its local delicacies. Over the past few years, more and more young people have combined food with art to create places that encompass culture and creativity and allow visitors to both admire art and taste local dishes.

Among other highlights, Tainan’s “Gucang Restaurant” and “Ting She Restaurant” have become this year’s most popular places to dine.

受演講啟發 設計師決定回饋家鄉 | After Being Inspired by a Lecturer, the Designer Decided to Return Home

老闆李翰凭表示,受到日本平面設計大師、MUJI無印良品藝術總監原研哉演講時的啟發。原研哉曾說:「設計師們,回鄉下去吧!設計師們前往鄉下幫忙農夫,把城市人吸引到農村。」讓他開始思考該如何運用個人的專長回饋給自己的家鄉台南。

Lee Han-Ping, the owner of “Ting She Restaurant,” said that he was inspired after attending a lecture by Japanese elite graphic designer and art director of MUJI, Kenya Hara. Hara had said, “Designers, head back home! Go back to the countryside to help farmers and lead the city people back to rural areas.” This led Lee to start thinking about how to use his talents to contribute and pay back his community and hometown, Tainan.

善化糖廠裡的「廳舍餐廳」,牆上人頭肖像都是近百年來與台灣文學或台灣糖業相關的人物,把原本長了壁癌的混凝土牆壁敲打重製,展現設計師功力。| The portraits on Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s Ting She Restaurant’s walls are all people who have connections with Taiwanese literature or the Taiwan Sugar Corporation. By re-constructing the mold-infested walls, the designer demonstrated his talents and expertise.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
善化糖廠裡的「廳舍餐廳」,牆上人頭肖像都是近百年來與台灣文學或台灣糖業相關的人物,把原本長了壁癌的混凝土牆壁敲打重製,展現設計師功力。| The portraits on Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s Ting She Restaurant’s walls are all people who have connections with Taiwanese literature or the Taiwan Sugar Corporation. By re-constructing the mold-infested walls, the designer demonstrated his talents and expertise.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

李翰凭是台南西港農村人,曾拿過十大文創商品設計大獎,和農委會百大精品獎。但與此同時,他的家鄉西港青壯年人口多半外移工作,只剩坐輪椅的老人與流鼻涕小孩,台灣的北港、南港、東港都那麼出名,但許多人聽都沒聽過西港。因此40歲左右的他,決定回到西港回饋家鄉。

Lee hails from Xigang District in the rural area of Tainan. He already received Tainan TOP 10 Creative Product Design Award and Taiwan Excellence Award, awarded by the Council of Agriculture, under his belt. But while he flourished, Xigang was faced with the challenge of young adults packing up to work in the cities, leaving behind bedridden elders and dependent children.

Most people in Taiwan have heard of Beigang, Nangang, and Donggang, but rarely has anyone heard of Xigang. Therefore, the 40-year-old designer decided to head back and contribute back to his hometown.

圖|陳志東攝|Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung
圖|陳志東攝|Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung

西港倉餐廳麻油雞小火鍋 動手DIY好玩又好吃 | Sesame-oil Chicken Hot Pot from the Gucang Restaurant in Xigang: making do-it-yourself fun and tasty

幸運的是,因為原本專業是影像和設計的機緣,李翰凭在4年多前遇到西港區農會廢棄榖倉招標,於是他標下後重新改造空間,開了「榖倉餐廳」。這間餐廳專賣在地最著名特產麻油雞。他的麻油雞特色就是把生鮮雞腿肉跟麻油、薑、蒜等食材擺在同一鍋內,把瓦斯爐端上桌讓遊客自己炒,先品嘗乾炒的雞肉再加高湯成麻油雞小火鍋,炒製過程中麻油香氣飄出,更藉此過程傳遞西港特產的胡麻油。於是短短幾年,穀倉餐廳已經成為西港排隊名店,擄獲許多老饕挑剔的味蕾。

Fortunately, due to his profession in film and design, Lee had encountered the bidding of Xigang’s old abandoned barn (originally owned by the Farmer’s Association) four years ago. He went back, bid on the old barn, and transformed the space into Gucang Restaurant. Sesame-oil chicken is sold exclusively at this restaurant.

What makes Gucang sesame-oil chicken so special is that they first place fresh chicken thigh meat, sesame-oil, ginger, and garlic into a pot. After bringing a small stove onto the table, the restaurant has customers cook the dish themselves. Usually, customers can get a taste of the fried chicken meat before soup is added to make the dish into sesame-oil chicken hot pot.

The reason for frying the dish in advance is to extract the sesame-oil to make it smell and taste better. This in turn, also passes on Xigang’s traditional specialty: sesame-oil. In just a few years, Gucang Restaurant has become known for its long line of customers and has earned the love and approval of foodies.

把食材放進鍋內讓顧客自己炒,又有趣又可趁機講解食材價值。| By placing the ingredients into a pot and asking customers to cook by themselves, the restaurant can make the experience both fun and educational.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
把食材放進鍋內讓顧客自己炒,又有趣又可趁機講解食材價值。| By placing the ingredients into a pot and asking customers to cook by themselves, the restaurant can make the experience both fun and educational.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
把食材放進鍋內讓顧客自己炒,又有趣又可趁機講解食材價值。| By placing the ingredients into a pot and asking customers to cook by themselves, the restaurant can make the experience both fun and educational.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
把食材放進鍋內讓顧客自己炒,又有趣又可趁機講解食材價值。| By placing the ingredients into a pot and asking customers to cook by themselves, the restaurant can make the experience both fun and educational.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
善化廳舍餐廳牆壁上16個頭像,每個都有故事與來歷。 | All 16 portraits on the walls of Shanhua Ting She Restaurant have their own stories.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
善化廳舍餐廳牆壁上16個頭像,每個都有故事與來歷。 | All 16 portraits on the walls of Shanhua Ting She Restaurant have their own stories.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

透過穀倉餐廳,當地農民與社區夥伴合作,以及西港農會的推廣與地方人士與政府共同努力,加上台灣食安問題風波帶動食用油消費觀的改變,現在西港胡麻種植面積已經廣達400多公頃,重新打響西港是台灣排名第一的胡麻產地。

Through Gucang Restaurant, local farmers and community partners worked together. Combined with the promotional efforts from Xigang’s Farmer Association, locals, and government, and the changing attitude of Taiwanese people toward cooking oil (a result of the food safety scandal in 2011), Xigang’s sesame farm area takes up more than 400 hectare, today. This has brought back Xigang’s reputation for being the No. 1 sesame producer in Taiwan.

善化廳舍餐廳價目表。| 4rfb t’s menu and prices(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
善化廳舍餐廳價目表。| 4rfb t’s menu and prices(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

善化糖廠廳舍餐廳 原汁原味舊時代風情 | Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s Ting She Restaurant: the return of original and traditional styles

今年初,李翰凭又標下善化糖廠裡的廢棄辦公廳舍,一個宛如廢墟的空間被他改造成「廳舍餐廳」。利用原本長了壁癌的混凝土牆壁敲敲打打,在牆上鑿出百年來台灣文學跟台灣糖業相關的人頭肖像,藝術之美讓人驚嘆。開幕不到半年,已經成台南最難訂餐廳之一。

Earlier this year, Lee also bid on Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s abandoned town hall, and transformed the near-ruined building, into the Ting She Restaurant. After administering some much-needed construction work on the moldy concrete walls, Lee painted various portraits of officials and talents in relation to Taiwanese literature and the Taiwan Sugar Corporation on them. The beauty of his artwork transformed the old building into a popular, hard-to-book restaurant, just six months after its opening date.

今年初,李翰凭又標下善化糖廠裡的廢棄辦公廳舍,一個宛如廢墟的空間被他改造成「廳舍餐廳」。| Earlier this year, Lee also bid on Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s abandoned town hall, and transformed the near-ruined building, into the Ting She Restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
今年初,李翰凭又標下善化糖廠裡的廢棄辦公廳舍,一個宛如廢墟的空間被他改造成「廳舍餐廳」。| Earlier this year, Lee also bid on Shanhua Sugar Corporation’s abandoned town hall, and transformed the near-ruined building, into the Ting She Restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

當初建造時有些糖廠老員工在施工時充滿敵意來監視,等施工完成後,看到昔日辦公廳風華再現,感動地特地把珍藏了數十年的糖廠老電話及花瓶都搬來,只說:「這些物品就是應該擺在這裡才對。」言談中充滿了欣慰與感動。

In its initial stage of construction, many retired workers from the Taiwan Sugar Corporation came to surveil the site with hostility. Upon witnessing the building returned to its former glory after construction, many were touched to the core and brought out old relics from the sugar corporation, such as telephones and vases. They merely said happily, “These things belong here.”

糖廠老員工從家裡帶來舊式電話供廳舍餐廳擺放。| Retired workers from the Sugar Corporation brought out old telephones from their own homes to place as decorations in the restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)
糖廠老員工從家裡帶來舊式電話供廳舍餐廳擺放。| Retired workers from the Sugar Corporation brought out old telephones from their own homes to place as decorations in the restaurant.(Courtesy of Chen Chih-tung)

來到台南大啖美食,千萬別錯過這幾家文青風餐廳,感受一下老時光與現代、藝術與美食、設計所營造出的文青風美味氛圍。

If you should come to Tainan to try out local delicacies, don’t miss these art enthusiast restaurants, and experience for yourselves, the combination of past and present, and of art, food and design.

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