來基隆不去這會後悔!海島秘境驚豔波多黎各學生

楊 子萱
·8 分鐘 (閱讀時間)
<p>Greg from Puerto Rico is currently studying in National Taiwan University. (Courtesy of Greg)</p>

Greg from Puerto Rico is currently studying in National Taiwan University. (Courtesy of Greg)

【看CP學英文】位於台北東北方、30分鐘車程外的基隆,以漁港聞名,是漁獲的重鎮,也是海軍基地的戰備機基地,但基隆的美仍值得讓更多人看見所幸,不論是陸地或海上觀光,基隆通通都有。 「水路」,一條由基隆港通往社寮島渡船頭的航路,刻印著1920世紀大航海時代的重要標記

Lying within a valley, Keelung is just a 30-minute bus ride away northeast of the capital city, Taipei. Famous for its harbor, which has served both the local fishermen and military vessels very well, a view of this coastal town from the sea is actually an often-overlooked delight.

Luckily, tours are readily available for both land and sea. Situated right before the docks is Shuilu (水路, meaning waterway), a quaint museum and tour provider which also houses films and pictures depicting the importance Keelung’s harbor has played in Taiwan’s 19th and 20th-century history — black-and-white images of by-gone poets, public figures and massive foreign battleships posing by the pier and customs house.

登上船,駛離滿載歷史的港口後,波濤洶湧的冬日海水一波波拍打著船身。冬天的海格外的躁動。我們停靠在海灣內較遠處靠近鮮黃色和平橋的地方上了岸,走向重新整修的公園。

After boarding and parting from the historic harbor, the choppy winter waters grow into larger waves slamming against the tour boat’s well-built hull.

The sea’s restlessness is infamous during this particular season, but we dock further within the harbor near the bright yellow Heping Bridge, and then walk towards the newly renovated scenic park at the very edge of this isle.

和平島公園其實是一座孤島,過去曾是垃圾掩埋場。 | Heping Island Park was actually a separate, solitary landmass, but throughout the previous centuries, the landfill was used to link it with the rest of Heping Island. (Courtesy of Greg)
和平島公園其實是一座孤島,過去曾是垃圾掩埋場。 | Heping Island Park was actually a separate, solitary landmass, but throughout the previous centuries, the landfill was used to link it with the rest of Heping Island. (Courtesy of Greg)

基隆先是成為荷蘭與西班牙的爭奪地,接著,在1895年清朝落敗後,落入日本人手中。然而,這些殖民者在當地興建的建築物幾乎皆不敵時間的考驗,僅有少數如建於1600中期的聖薩爾瓦多城等遺跡部分保留下來。現在,遊客可近距離欣賞古蹟,在腦中拼湊出前人的生活模樣。至今已有十具骷髏、陶瓷和一些文物在此出土。

First witnessing the competitive struggle between Dutch and Spanish commercial ambitions, the area then became a base for Japanese colonial forces, building a garrison there after having defeated the Qing in 1895.

Unfortunately, nearly all of the structures left by these outside powers have been swept away by time, with the exception of some recently excavated remains – the Convent of All Saints (諸聖教堂) – which formed part of the Fort San Salvador (聖薩爾瓦多城) complex built in the mid-1600s.

Now a series of uncovered stonework and masonry occupying a housing block, visitors can see the convent’s ruins up-close and learn how the structure reflects the isolated lifestyle its sparse inhabitants once enjoyed before the Dutch arrived.

To date, ten skeletons have been uncovered as well as ceramics and other artifacts.

在和平島上可以DIY海藻水餃,其中海藻是當地的海女所採集的。 | Activities at Heping Island Park include making your own seaweed-stuffed dumplings. The seaweed is collected from the local “sea women” (海女), who dedicated their lives to diving in the treacherous waters to gather and sell the several kinds of sea plants. (Courtesy of Greg)
在和平島上可以DIY海藻水餃,其中海藻是當地的海女所採集的。 | Activities at Heping Island Park include making your own seaweed-stuffed dumplings. The seaweed is collected from the local “sea women” (海女), who dedicated their lives to diving in the treacherous waters to gather and sell the several kinds of sea plants. (Courtesy of Greg)

和平島公園其實是一座孤島,過去曾是垃圾掩埋場。現在已搖身一變成為一座美麗的公園,有餐廳、有烹飪教室,專門教導人們如何烹煮當地料理,亦有販售各種當地特色物品的禮品店。穿越過島上靜謐的地區三面環海,空氣中飄散著海水的鹹味。

Heping Island Park was actually a separate, solitary landmass, but throughout the previous centuries, the landfill was used to link it with the rest of Heping Island.

Now, the northernmost point has been converted to a wonderful park which houses restaurants, a classroom where staff teaches local cuisine, and a gift shop selling an array of locally designed clothing, artwork, and house appliances (incl. many products made by Taiwan’s aboriginal population).

The moment one reaches this scenic area after walking through the quiet town on Heping, the smell of ocean waves and their droplets waft through the air, given that the sea now surrounds us on three sides.

和平島上最刺激的景點非海水泳池莫屬,倚靠著整排的礁岩。 | Most exciting among the Heping Island Park’s attractions are the seawater swimming pool (和平島公園海水泳池) bordering along the reef. (Courtesy of Greg)
和平島上最刺激的景點非海水泳池莫屬,倚靠著整排的礁岩。 | Most exciting among the Heping Island Park’s attractions are the seawater swimming pool (和平島公園海水泳池) bordering along the reef. (Courtesy of Greg)

和平島最刺激的地方便是和平島公園海水泳池了。海水泳池倚靠著礁石,一面浸泡在沁涼的水中,一面眺望山巒,欣賞一波波的海浪,是多麼享受啊!和平島公園觀景亭也是魅力十足,坐落於公園東邊的懸崖上,下方便是拍打著礁岩的海浪。對於現代人來說,這樣的地理環境可能不適合居住,但是以前琉球人時常到此與當地居民進行交易呢。

Most exciting among the Heping Island Park’s attractions are the seawater swimming pool (和平島公園海水泳池) bordering along the reef. Just imagine dipping cooling off in the pool while gazing at the mountain ranges on one side and the crashing waves on the other.

Second on this list is the path towards the Hepingdao Lookout (和平島公園觀景亭), which wraps around the one cliff on the eastern side of the park, and hangs directly above the eroded rock formations and tidal forces slamming violently against it.

To us modern folk, this would seem a difficult location to settle, but those unaccustomed to our contemporary comforts, such as the Ryukyu peoples of olden days, would come down here from the Okinawa archipelago to fish and trade with inhabitants in the Taiwanese mainland.

和平島上的寺廟保存著古老的習俗,至今仍受人們信奉。 | The Taoist temples and shrines on Heping Island help preserve the customs this aging yet persevering community. (Courtesy of Greg)
和平島上的寺廟保存著古老的習俗,至今仍受人們信奉。 | The Taoist temples and shrines on Heping Island help preserve the customs this aging yet persevering community. (Courtesy of Greg)

此趟行程也有熟悉當地歷史的導遊為我們進行精彩詳細講解,帶我們穿過蜿蜒的街道參觀寺廟,了解當地人的信仰及信奉的習俗。最後,我們的旅程在海灣上畫下句點,夕陽西下十分,欣賞黃色的和平橋一旁則是一排繽紛的建築,沿岸停泊著五顏六色的漁船。渡船頭的過去與未來深深的羈絆著,等你來解。

To rap up the tour, the Heping Island Park provides local tour guides well-versed in the island’s long history.

After giving us a vivid depiction of the different cultures that once inhabited this land, they also take us winding the streets of the town to visit the Taoist temples and shrines and the customs they preserve throughout this aging yet persevering community.

Ending the trip at sunset on the bay overlooking the yellow Heping Bridge on one side and the row of pastelcolored buildings on the other – multicolored fisherman boats docked along the boardwalk – our visit to this ever-changing is just one of many more throughout these centuries, both past and future.

七彩的建築物搭配著五顏六色的漁船。 | The bay overlooking Heping Bridge and the row of pastel-colored buildings – multicolored fisherman boats docked along the boardwalk. (Courtesy of Greg)
七彩的建築物搭配著五顏六色的漁船。 | The bay overlooking Heping Bridge and the row of pastel-colored buildings – multicolored fisherman boats docked along the boardwalk. (Courtesy of Greg)

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