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「奢華是個過時的概念！」Jonathan Anderson看破時尚與創作的20句直率語錄
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於2008年創立個人品牌JW Anderson，並於2013年開始擔任Loewe創意總監的設計師Jonathan Anderson，以獨特的藝文設計視角而聞名於時尚圈，可稱是當代最具代表性的服裝設計師之一。即便同時執掌兩個品牌，Jonathan Anderson憑著挑戰傳統性別概念的設計、創新大膽的材料使用，依然屢屢成功地在時裝周的眾多大秀中脫穎而出，成為話題討論焦點。其個人品牌JW Anderson更接連與Uniqlo、Converse、Moncler聯名，推出許多令人驚豔的作品，證明了Jonathan Anderson並未因同時兼任兩品牌創意總監而失去設計動能，反而持續追求服裝的設計創新。如今個人品牌已成立滿十五週年、擔任Loewe創意總監已滿十年的Jonathan Anderson，對於服裝設計懷抱的熱忱非但並未減少，更持續用其獨特的創意思維打造精彩作品，並於2023年一次榮獲英國時尚大獎的「年度設計師」與CFDA美國時裝設計師協會的「國際設計師」兩項大獎。可能就如Jonathan Anderson自己所言：「我只是喜歡這份工作。」以單純的熱情為出發，相信我們將可期待不斷挑戰自我的Jonathan Anderson繼續用作品驚艷下一個世代。以下讓我們用Jonathan Anderson的20句名言金句，帶你品味他的獨到時尚見解與創作觀！
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Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於奢華
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Danny Martindale
"The idea of luxury no longer exists. It is a bygone word."
奢華的概念早已不復存在。這是一個過時的詞語。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於犯錯
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Estrop
"You have to let yourself open up to the idea of wrongness. as a designer you want to evolve, and you can’t really evolve without criticism."
你必須讓自己接受錯誤。作為一個設計師，沒有批評就不可能真正的進化。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於挑戰
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Mike Marsland
"I think you need struggle. If you don’t have it then you’re not going to produce anything, because you have nothing to fight for."
我認為你需要挑戰。如果沒有挑戰，你將不會創造出任何東西，因為你沒有需要奮鬥的原因。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於創造話題
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I’ve never gone out to do anything controversial, I find it mundane that people think that."
我從未刻意創造爭議的作品，我覺得人們有這樣的想法很無趣。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於動力
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Dimitrios Kambouris
"Sometimes people are curious to know how we do all of it, but ultimately you do it because it’s the only thing that keeps you going."
有時候人們會好奇我們是如何做到這些成就，但事實是因為這些就是唯一能讓你繼續前進的事情。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於熱情
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I just love the work… and I hate bullshit."
我只是熱愛這份工作...且我討厭無關的廢話。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於時尚
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"Fashion is an archetype: you’re trying to build a silhouette, and that is very similar to building up a building because you’re trying to create a new structure, a new proportion, a new shape, and you’re using a material to cut which is a bit mathematical."
時尚是一種原型：你會試圖打造一個輪廓，而這與建造建築物非常相似，因為你試圖創造一個新的結構、一個新的比例、一個新的形狀，再以宛如數學邏輯的方式剪裁面料。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於何謂時尚
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I will never see fashion as an art form. I see it as being more mechanical."
我永遠不會將時尚視為藝術形式。我視其為更機械化的東西。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於影響力
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Taylor Hill
"Fashion is something you do that has the potential to change culture, to infiltrate ideas and influence people."
時尚是一種有機會能改變文化、滲透思想並影響人們的事物。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於設計
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Pascal Le Segretain
"What I like in design is that progression, it can be a jolted progression but I like the consistency of our progression. It tights the overall impact and you develop ideas in a more concise way."
對於設計，我喜歡其中的進程，即使它可能是一個不連貫的過程，但我喜歡進展中的一致性。這使整體的影響力更加緊密，並且使你能以更簡潔的方式發展想法。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於創作理念
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Catwalking
"Sometimes, you know, it doesn’t have to be perfect, it doesn’t have to be glossy, it doesn’t have to be all these different things. It needs to be sometimes just honest."
有時候時尚不必完美，不必光鮮亮麗，不必是各式各樣不同的東西。有時候只需要是真誠的。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於危機
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I think sometimes, it’s actually a really good moment to start in a crisis, because it’s not just about selling at the moment. It’s about ideas."
事實上，有時候在危機中開始是一個很好的時刻，因為那不僅是關於當下的銷售，而是關乎於點子。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於商業
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Mike Marsland/BFC
"One thing I think I’ve learned is that we put so much emphasis on the business part, and what’s actually happened is we’ve ended the end of the last decade with clothing that means nothing."
我認為我學到的一件事是我們太注重商業了，正因如此，我們以毫無意義的服裝結束了上一個十年。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於責任感
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Pascal Le Segretain
"We are going through a phase where, without our own responsibility, we lose this generation quicker."
我們正在經歷一個轉換期，在這個階段，如果失去自我的責任感，我們將會更快地失去這個世代
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於創新
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Vittorio Zunino Celotto
"As we step into this decade, newness and immediacy is key."
在這個世代，新意和即時性至關重要。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於時尚產業現況
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"The state fashion industry is so fractured at the moment as well. Ideas, trends, garments are just whipping by."
目前時尚產業非常分裂。概念、趨勢、服裝都只是匆匆而過。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於社群文化
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Peter White
"We live in the world of the ‘like’ culture. As a society we’re consuming so much imagery it’s like gorging on sugar, and the only way to find depth in a “like” culture is by presenting the unknown."
我們生活在「按讚」文化的世界。在這個社會中，我們吸收著太多的圖像，就像貪婪地攝取糖一樣，而要透過「按讚」找到深度意義的唯一方法，就是呈現未知。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於價值
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: John Phillips
"We are privileged to be able to speak on the computer, we’re privileged to be able to read all the books online, we’re privileged to be able to travel around the world, we’re privileged that we have electricity. But if we’re not careful, we’re going to forget actually what it all stands for, because we just get it anyway."
我們能夠透過電腦即時交流、能夠在線上閱讀所有的書籍、能夠環遊世界，擁有電力。但如果我們不小心，就可能會忘記這些事物實際上代表著什麼，因為我們輕而易舉就能得到它。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於時裝秀
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I want every show to be the best show. It’s not that I don’t want each show to be the best and beat the last show, but I am feeling a little like I am ready to detach a bit so that you don’t get consumed by the character."
我希望每場秀都是最好的秀。這不是說我不希望每場秀都是最好的並且超越上一場，我覺得更像是我會做好切割，這樣才不會被角色吞噬。
Jonathan Anderson語錄：關於改變
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: Victor Virgile
"I just love the work. And I love to be able to change along the way as well, because I always think that when things get really good you have to change them — and this is the hardest thing."
我只是喜歡這份工作。我也喜歡能夠一直改變，因為我總是認為當一件事情已經做得很好時，你更需要做出改變——這是最難的事。
延伸閱讀
COPYRIGHT: Getty Images
PHOTO CREDIT: FRANCOIS GUILLOT
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＊本文由哈潑時尚 Harper's BAZAAR 報導，未經授權同意不得轉載
